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Laura and Deanna Fanning say their spring/summer 2027 collection for Kiko Kostadinov will pursue a cleaner, more graphic direction, drawing on artist Nanda Vigo’s use of light to define space. The ELLE report also traces how their collaboration has shaped the label’s womenswear, known for combining utility, unusual silhouettes and historical and science-fiction references.
Laura and Deanna Fanning say their spring/summer 2027 collection for Kiko Kostadinov is taking a cleaner, more graphic direction, according to an ELLE interview published ahead of the label’s planned October 5 show at Paris Fashion Week. The preview offers an early account of how the sisters are developing the womenswear line, whose distinctive mix of utility, unusual construction and historical references has attracted a following among artists and intellectuals.
In the interview, Deanna described the in-progress collection as “very clean, very graphic.” She said that direction follows several seasons focused on developing silhouettes and exploring transparency. The sisters call it their version of minimalism, while acknowledging that it may not appear minimal to other viewers. Their show was scheduled for October 5 in Paris; the report was published before the presentation.
The collection takes inspiration from the work of Nanda Vigo, a visual artist whose ambient works used light to delineate space. The Fannings said they want to reinterpret that idea on the body. ELLE illustrated the report with examples from the label’s fall/winter 2026 runway, including a bomber with modernist triangular epaulets and central paneling, and a V-neck cardigan maxi dress with detachable oversized sleeves and a two-color hood. Those pieces belong to the earlier collection, not the spring/summer 2027 preview.
Kiko Kostadinov founded the London-based label as a menswear brand in 2016. The Australian-born Fanning sisters joined in 2018 to lead its womenswear. Deanna brings a knitwear background, while Laura describes her specialty as silhouette. They said textiles, color and accessories connect their work, with footwear collaborations—including work with ASICS—forming one route for those interests.
A Distinctive Womenswear Audience
The interview matters as an early indication of the creative direction of a label whose womenswear has developed a recognizable identity outside mainstream fashion conventions. The sisters described an audience open to clothing that does not fit a familiar mold, and ELLE characterized the line as having a following among artists and intellectuals. Those descriptions come from the report and the designers; the article did not provide sales figures or audience data.
The stated move toward a cleaner, more graphic collection could shift how the label balances its layered references with directness. The sisters have previously combined utility and science-fiction elements with historical forms, creating clothes they say can challenge a wearer’s perceptions while remaining wearable. The coming collection will show how they apply their new reference to the body.
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How the Sisters Shaped Womenswear
Kostadinov established the label in London in 2016, initially focused on menswear. Two years later, Laura and Deanna Fanning began developing its womenswear, drawing in part on their graduate collections. The sisters, who studied at Central Saint Martins, said Kostadinov gave them broad freedom when they started. They have worked together for much of their lives and describe their natural communication as part of their design process.
Their backgrounds and memories inform recurring features of the label. Deanna’s knitwear experience and Laura’s interest in silhouette meet in their shared attention to textiles, color and accessories. Laura also connected their interest in footwear to growing up in Australia, where school uniforms made shoes a visible point of difference, and to family memories of garments and shoes made in Italy by their grandparents. The report links the resulting designs to a mix of craft, practical details and unfamiliar shapes.
Details Await the Runway
The interview is a preview, not a full account of the spring/summer 2027 collection. It does not provide a complete look list, pricing, production details or information about when pieces will reach stores. The show was scheduled for October 5, but the source does not confirm how the finished collection appeared on the runway. Claims about the label’s audience and its reception are qualitative; the report offers no audience size or sales data.
The October Paris Presentation
The next milestone identified in the report is the label’s October 5 Paris Fashion Week show, where the completed spring/summer 2027 collection was due to be presented. The runway presentation would clarify how the Nanda Vigo reference and the stated interest in graphic directness translate into garments. The ELLE interview does not specify any later release dates or retail plans.
Key Questions
What is the news about Kiko Kostadinov?
Laura and Deanna Fanning previewed a cleaner, more graphic direction for the label’s spring/summer 2027 womenswear collection in an ELLE interview ahead of its planned Paris show.
When was the collection scheduled to be shown?
The report said the show was planned for October 5, 2026, during Paris Fashion Week. It was published before the presentation.
Who leads Kiko Kostadinov womenswear?
Laura and Deanna Fanning have led the womenswear component since joining the label in 2018. Kostadinov founded the brand in 2016 as a menswear label.
What inspired the spring/summer 2027 collection?
The sisters said they studied visual artist Nanda Vigo, whose ambient works used light to delineate space. They aim to reinterpret that idea on the body.
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